Every first Wednesday of each month, Dana, a trendy fashion blogger from London will discuss eco-fashion. Don't miss it!
‘Let me show you “Derelicte”. It is a fashion, a way of life inspired by the very homeless, the vagrants...that make this wonderful city so unique.’
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These were the infamous words of the character Mugatu played by Will Ferrell, in the critically acclaimed Hollywood film Zoolander (2001). Initially intended to mock the fashion industry and the rise of celebrity culture, it is rather ironic that this satirical play on recyclable fashion had only prophesised one the fundamental concepts in the fashion of the 21st century.
“Derelicte” displayed a fashion line based on this homeless-chic concept of manufacturing fashionable designs simply out of the comfort of your own home; using kitchen utensils, bin liners, and cardboard boxes juxtaposed with highly overpriced couture dresses of the likes of Versace and Oscar de la Renta.
But at what point did this parody of mainstream fashion filter through onto the catwalk as a substantial and legitimate practice in design? The following article will investigate how the perception of eco-fashion in the past decade has progressed on the catwalk as well as its advances into the retail industry.
In the beginning of the new millennium, John Galliano showcased his controversial spring collection for the House of Dior, allegedly being inspired by the French homeless. It was in fact this specific fashion line which was the inspiration for the “Derelicte” range in the 2001 Zoolander film. With designs consisting of newspapers and torn linings, accessorised with empty whiskey bottles and safety pins, Galliano claimed his collection evoked the Rag Balls of the 1930’s.
Christian Dior, Spring 2000
Photo by Giovanni Giannoni
Indeed, his line caused immediate uproar from fashion critics; Cathy Horyn, Times fashion writer made note that it was probably unlikely a couture client would spend “$25,000 for a dress just so she can look like a bum”. Naturally, Galliano defended himself, whilst retaliating against his critics, labelling them ‘bourgeois people, condescending and smug’. It was evident that high fashion was not yet ready for such a style, perhaps because it was not yet “fashionable” to wear recycled materials and be paying a substantial amount for it. Simply at the time it was produced, Galliano’s ranges aimed to shock and test the boundaries of fashion, rather than focussing on making a socio-environmental impact. That and the fact that these designs were not necessarily a realistically wearable investment was perhaps the reason for its poor response.
It was halfway through the last decade whereby designers began to realise the value of Eco-Fashion, and used their celebrity status as a means to raise awareness of its potential impact not just on the environment, but also consumer choices in the retail industry. Recently branded as ‘one of the true pioneers of eco-chic’ by Marie Claire, Stella McCartney became renowned for her accessories being strictly free from animal cruelty, and her clothing being environmentally friendly. Her designs proved that fashion could be fair as well as stylish and in 2008, released her beautiful organic capsule collection.
Stella McCartney
As seen in Marieclaire.co.uk
Whilst McCartney proved that fashion could be sustainable, it was in 2010 when Eco-Fashion really entered into high end couture, under the reign of Lebanese fashion designer Ziad Ghanem.
‘Eco-fashion has yet to completely shake off its hippie hemp roots and I would like to prove that using recycled and eco-friendly methods does not mean you have to compromise on design and quality.’
A decade on, people are now prepared to spend money on a design which is both sustainable and fashionable. In comparison to Galliano’s range 10 years ago, style now did not have to be sacrificed when recycling material.
So what is the future for Eco-Fashion? Looking ahead in 2011:
Let me show you “People Tree”, the self-named ‘Fairtrade fashion pioneer’.
People Tree
As seen on peopletree.co.uk
People Tree is one of the original ethical fashion labels which aim to use only organic and Fairtrade cotton as well as using strictly natural dyes, sourcing locally where possible and prioritise recycled products over synthetics. Collaborating with designers Thakoon and Bora Aksu, People Tree has managed to combine beautiful fashion with affordable prices, proving that eco-fashion does not have to be a niche branding, but rather enables availability to all to buy eco-friendly and fashionable clothes.
And of course, do not forget The Junction Boutgique. The Junction Boutique supports local talent to market and sell sustainable fashion products to a wider audience of fashionably intelligent customers.
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